The egg is a universal symbol of life across cultures and religions––and then of hope, purity, prosperity, and engineered perfection. The simplicity of both the object and the word hides a wondrous complexity of meanings and values. As a food versatile in its uses and rich in flavor while also being nutritionally lavish, the chicken egg finds its place both in meals of decadence and of scarcity. At the global scale, it is so fundamental to every table as to have called for massive industrial production, with great ethical and ecological consequences. As a design feat, its shell is fragile yet strong, engineered to be broken by a hatchling from within but not by an adult that sits atop. More broadly, the egg cell is the progenitor for all forms of animal life, and is thus a symbolic center for many contentious debates around motherhood, genetics, and the question of what constitutes life. The egg even further complicates our notions of time itself––see the pervasive chicken-or-egg dilemma, for instance––as an object that paradoxically becomes its own cause and effect. And these are only a few angles of approach. With its complexities and contradictions, the egg can lead to an examination of some of society’s most ancient and most urgent quandaries.
We will pose the following questions: With so much of the food we eat relying on the ingredient of eggs, what are the potential consequences of their scarcity? Can the egg be a tool to lift people out of poverty? Can they ever become scarce? What are the many manifestations of the egg as a semiotic gateway? What can we learn from the ways in which the use of eggs changes across cultures? What can engineering and material science learn from the egg shell? What can nature teach us about efficiency in design? What is perfection? How is motherhood defined? Can the value of an egg cell be defined, and who should benefit from it? Is there a point at which human intervention in the process of reproduction becomes unethical? What is the role of the egg in the narration of evolution? And in the process of transformation?
This Salon took place on December 5, 2023
Roger Benson is the Macaulay Curator and the Curator-in-Charge of Fossil Amphibians, Reptiles, and Birds and Fossil Plants in the Division of Paleontology at the Natural History Museum in New York. His research spans from field discovery and detailed anatomy of fossils, up to quantitative analysis of the large-scale patterns of evolution that have shaped biodiversity. It incorporates 3D morphometric and comparative study of both living and fossil species, phylogenetic palaeobiology, quantitative studies of form-function relationships, and classic elements of palaeontology/systematics. His expertise is focused on Mesozoic and Late Palaeozoic groups including dinosaurs and other reptiles. His research group has addressed fundamental questions on the deep time evolutionary history of tetrapods more widely, including mammals, birds, crocodylians, turtles, lizards and their ancestors. It also finds links between the past and the present, using large datasets of extant species anatomy to test hypotheses of the ecology of extinct species such as dinosaurs.
Lori Gruen is the William Griffin Professor of Philosophy and Professor of Feminist, Gender and Sexuality Studies and Science in Society at Wesleyan University where she coordinates Wesleyan Animal Studies. She works primarily in ethics and social and poitical philosophy and is a prolific scholar. She is the author and editor of over a dozen books, including Ethics and Animals: An Introduction (Cambridge, 2011, second edition 2021), Entangled Empathy (Lantern, 2015), Animal Crisis (Polity, 2022) co-authored with Alice Crary, Carceral Logics (Cambridge, 2022) co-edited with Justin Marceau, Critical Terms for Animal Studies (Chicago, 2018), Ecofeminism: Feminist Intersections with Other Animals and the Earth (Bloomsbury 2014, second edition 2022, co-edited with Carol J. Adams), Ethics of Captivity (Oxford, 2014), and others. Gruen’s work focuses on ethical and political issues that impact those often overlooked in traditional philosophical investigations, e.g. women and other marginalized genders, people of color, incarcerated people, and non-human animals. She is a Fellow of the Hastings Center for Bioethics, was a Faculty Fellow at Tufts’ Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine’s Center for Animals and Public Policy, is a fellow of the Brooks Animal Studies Academic Network and was the first and founding chair of the Faculty Advisory Committee of the Center for Prison Education at Wesleyan. Gruen has documented the history of The First 100 chimpanzees in research in the US and has an evolving website that documents the journey to sanctuary of the remaining chimpanzees in research labs, The Last 1000. Gruen has written on a range of topics in practical ethics, feminist philosophy and political philosophy. Her current projects include exploring captivity and the ethical and political questions raised by carceral logics.
Born in 1978 in Paris, France, Camille Henrot now lives and works in New York City. The practice of French artist Camille Henrot moves seamlessly between film, painting, drawing, bronze, sculpture, and installation. Henrot draws upon references from literature, psychoanalysis, social media, cultural anthropology, self-help, and the banality of everyday life in order to question what it means to be both a private individual and a global subject. A 2013 fellowship at the Smithsonian Institute resulted in her film ‘Grosse Fatigue,’ for which she was awarded the Silver Lion at the 55th Venice Biennale. She elaborated ideas from ‘Grosse Fatigue’ to conceive her acclaimed 2014 installation ‘The Pale Fox’ at Chisenhale Gallery in London. The exhibit, which displayed the breadth of her diverse output, went on to travel to institutions including Kunsthal Charlottenburg, Copenhagen; Bétonsalon – Centre for art and research, Paris; Westfälischer Kunstverein, Münster, Germany; and Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Japan. In 2017, Henrot was given carte blanche at Palais de Tokyo in Paris, where she presented the major exhibition ‘Days Are Dogs,’ She is the recipient of the 2014 Nam June Paik Award and the 2015 Edvard Munch Award, and has participated in the Lyon, Berlin, Sydney and Liverpool Biennials, among others. Henrot has had numerous solo exhibitions worldwide, including the New Museum, New York; Schinkel Pavilion, Berlin; New Orleans Museum of Art; Fondazione Memmo, Rome; Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Japan, among others.
Camari Mick is the executive pastry chef at both The Musket Room, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Manhattan’s Nolita neighborhood, and Raf’s, a nearby French and Italian bakery and restaurant from the same ownership (of which she is also a partner). In 2022, she became a James Beard Award semi-finalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef. This year, she became a James Beard Award semi-finalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef for the second consecutive year. Mick, who Michelin refers to as “NYC’s Dessert Doyenne,” proudly incorporates her Jamaican heritage into her dishes. Prior to The Musket Room, Mick honed her pastry experience in some of New York’s finest kitchens, including Thomas Keller’s TAK Room, Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin and Daniel Boulud’s db Bistro Moderne.
Tim Birkhead is a zoologist whose research focuses on populations of birds and their reproduction. Tim has made important contributions to the field of behavioural ecology—the study of how animal behaviour evolves under the influence of environmental pressures. He also studies the competitive actions of male birds’ sperm.He showed that extrapair paternity—where the offspring raised by a pair are the result of the female mating with an outsider male — is common amongst birds. Tim also demonstrated the existence of ‘guarding techniques’, which are carried out by the male bird in a pair. In studies of the zebra finch, he revealed that the sperm of the last male to mate with a female took precedence for fertilising her eggs. Tim is the author of Bird Sense: What it’s Like to be a Bird (2012), a popular science book that discusses life as a bird and was shortlisted for the Royal Society’s Winton Prize for Science Books in 2013. His TED talk, The Early Birdwatchers, has received over 100,000 views.
The crux of Chow and Lin’s practice lies in their methodology of statistical, mathematical, and computational techniques to address global issues since 2010. Chow and Lin’s projects are driven by the discursive backgrounds in economics, public policy, media, and these are further augmented by enduring exchanges with specialists from those fields. Their projects have been exhibited at Arles Les Rencontres De La Photographie, Art Museum of Guangzhou Academy of Fine Art, Venice Arte Laguna, Houston FotoFest Biennial, National University of Singapore Museum and were invited to present at the United Nations Conference Centre in Bangkok. Their works are in the permanent collections of Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) and China Central Academy of Fine Arts Museum. They are authors of The Poverty Line (published by Actes Sud and Lars Müller Publishers, 2021) which is in the collections of the MoMA library and Centre Pompidou Bibliothèque publique d'information. Stefen Chow and Huiyi Lin currently reside in Beijing, China.
Amander Clark PhD is a stem cell scientist, geneticist and developmental biologist who is internationally recognized for her work on the germline and in vitro gametogenesis. Professor Clark has authored over one hundred research articles, and is regularly invited to speak on the use of stem cells to understand fertility and infertility. Professor Clark’s work has been recognized by Awards from the International Society for Stem Cell Research, STOP Cancer, the Lance Armstrong Foundation, and the Concern Foundation. More recently, she was awarded the prestigious Founders Medal from the Australian and New Zealand Society for Reproductive Biology, and was selected to serve on the National Academies of Science Engineering and Medicine Board of Health Sciences Policy. Professor Clark was recruited to UCLA in 2006, awarded tenure in 2012 and advanced to Full Professor in 2015. From 2017, Professor Clark served as Department Chair of the UCLA Department of Molecular Cell and Developmental Biology and is currently the inaugural Director of the UCLA Center for Reproductive Science, Health and Education. As of July 2023, Professor Clark advances to President of the International Society for Stem Cell Research, a global non-profit that promotes excellence in stem cell science and applications to human health.
Teman Evans is global head of design at General Mills and a faculty member of Harvard University’s Graduate School of Design, where he teaches courses in design thinking, branding, and strategic innovation. Prior to this, he was the global director of brand design and customer experience design at PepsiCo. Previously, Evans was vice president of branding and strategy at Foote, Cone, and Belding and worked with architects David Rockwell in New York and Rem Koolhaas in Europe and Asia, where he created innovation strategies for global brands from Prada to the Beijing Olympics. Teman also co-founded DIOSCURI design and brand consulting agency, where he was chief creative officer.
Dr. Ashanté M. Reese earned a PhD in Anthropology from American University. Broadly speaking, Dr. Reese works at the intersection of critical food studies and Black geographies, examining the ways Black people produce and navigate food-related spaces. Animated by the question, who and what survives?, Dr. Reese’s work has focused on the everyday strategies Black people employ while navigating inequity. Her first book, Black Food Geographies: Race, Self-Reliance, and Food Access in Washington, D.C., takes up these themes through an ethnographic exploration of antiblackness and food access. Black Food Geographies won the 2020 Best Monograph Award from the Association for the Study of Food and Society and 2020 Margaret Mead Award jointly awarded by the American Anthropological Association and the Society for Applied Anthropology. Her second book, Black Food Matters: Racial Justice in the Wake of Food Justice, is a collection co-edited with Hanna Garth that explores the geographic, social, and cultural dimensions of food in Black life across the U.S. Currently, Dr. Reese is working on a cultural history of sugar and Sugar Land, Texas in which she explores the spatial, economic, and carceral implications of sugar and the sometimes contradictory and deadly sweetness that marks Black life. A committed teacher, Dr. Reese was the recipient of the 2020-21 Friar Centennial Teaching Fellowship.
Emelyn Rude’s work sits at the intersection of economic, environmental, and culinary history and is broadly focused on the development of the food system in the United States in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. She is particularly interested in the history of eating animals and previously studied the factors driving the growth of American chicken consumption and the impact of marine species declines on the production and consumption of food. Her current research project aims to understand how species declines and extinctions events changed American eating habits more broadly, with the ultimate goal of retelling the story of the American food system through the lens of this type of environmental degradation. She received her PhD in History from the University of Cambridge in 2022, her MPhil in Economic and Social History from Cambridge in 2018, and her Bachelor’s in Social Studies from Harvard University in 2012. Her interest in food is not purely academic, however. Prior to going to graduate school she helped run high-end restaurants in New York, worked as a pastry cook and recipe tester, and helped to write and edit various cookbooks. These days she publishes an independent magazine focused on food history called EATEN and is also a trained and certified sommelier.
Mary Caswell Stoddard is an Associate Professor in the Princeton Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology. She joined the department in 2016. She is an Associated Faculty member in the High Meadows Environmental Institute, the Princeton Bioengineering Initiative and the Lewis-Sigler Institute for Integrative Genomics. Cassie received her undergraduate degree from Yale University, where she researched avian vision and plumage color evolution at the Peabody Museum of Natural History. She received a Marshall Scholarship and an NSF Graduate Research Fellowship to study at the University of Cambridge, where she completed her PhD research. Cassie joined the Harvard Society of Fellows in 2012 as a Junior Fellow and was named a 2013 L’Oréal USA For Women in Science Fellow. She received a 2018 Alfred P. Sloan Research Fellowship, a 2018 Packard Fellowship and a 2022 Schmidt Science Polymath Award.
Nicola Twilley is co-host of the award-winning podcast Gastropod, which looks at food through the lens of history and science, and an award-winning contributor to The New Yorker. She lives in Los Angeles. GEOFF MANAUGH is the author of the New York Times-bestseller A Burglar’s Guide to the City, as well as the architecture and technology website BLDGBLOG. He regularly writes for The New York Times Magazine, The Atlantic, The New Yorker, Wired, and many other publications. He lives in Los Angeles.
GENERAL
Aristotle. The History of Animals. 350 B.C.E. (Available online)
Harvey, William. Exercises On The Generation of Animals. London: 1651. (Available online with institutional access)
Rude, Emelyn. Tastes Like Chicken: A History of America’s Favorite Bird. New York: Pegasus Books, 2016.
Short, R. “Where do babies come from?” Nature 403, 705 (2000). (Available online)
Stark, Lizzie. Egg: A Dozen Ovatures. New York: W. W. Norton, 2023.
Twilley, Nicola and Cynthia Graber. “The Incredible Egg.” Gastropod. October 23, 2018. (Available online)
Twilley, Nicola and Cynthia Graber. “The Incredible Egg (encore).” Gastropod. June 27, 2023. (Available online)
Walker, Nicole. Egg. London: Bloomsbury Press, 2017.
EVOLUTION OF EGGS
Benson, Roger. “Egg Cetera #2: The answer to the riddle of which came first.” University of Cambridge. April 6, 2012. (Available online)
Joel, Lucas. “Life Hatched From Soft Eggs, Some a Foot Long, in Dinosaur Era.” The New York Times. June 17, 2020. (Available online)
Wei-Haas, Maya. “See a rare baby dinosaur curled up in its fossilized egg.” National Geographic. December 21, 2021. (Available online)
Zimmer, Carl. “How Did Birds First Take Off?” The New York Times. June 3, 2023. (Available online)
THE SCIENCE OF BIRD EGGS
Birkhead, Tim. The Most Perfect Thing: Inside (and Outside) a Bird’s Egg. London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2017. (Review available here)
Stoddard, Mary Caswell, et al., “Avian egg shape: Form, function, and evolution.” Science 356, (2017): 1249-1254. (Available online)
Stoddard, M. C. 2022. “Bird eggs.” Current Biology. (Available online)
Oyen, Michelle, Rebecca Kilner, and Mary Caswell Stoddard. “Egg Cetera #5: Nature’s paradoxical packaging.” University of Cambridge. April 9, 2012. (Available online)
Yong, Ed. “Why Are Bird Eggs Egg-Shaped? An Eggsplainer.” The Atlantic. June 22, 2017. (Available online)
ECONOMICS OF EGGS
Chow and Lin. The Poverty Line. Baden, Switzerland: Lars Müller Publishers, 2021.
Gates, Bill. “Why I would raise chickens.” Gates Notes. June 7, 2016. (Available online)
Gorman, James. “It Could Be the Age of the Chicken, Geologically.” The New York Times. December 11, 2018. (Available online)
Smialek, Jenna and Ana Swanson. “Forget Pandemic Puppies. Meet the Inflation Chicken.” The New York Times. February 2, 2023. (Available online)
COOKING WITH EGGS
McGee, Harold. “Eggs.” On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. New York: Scribner’s, 2004. (Available online)
Moshenska, Joe. “Egg Cetera #3: Take thirty Eggs, fifteen whites, beat them well…” University of Cambridge. April 7, 2012. (Available online)
Paxson, Heather. Eating beside Ourselves: Thresholds of Foods and Bodies. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2023. (Available online)
Ruhlman, Michael. Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World’s Most Versatile Ingredient. Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 2014.
Ruhlman, Michael. “Please, Consider the Egg.” Ruhlman. February 3, 2021. (Available online)
HUMAN REPRODUCTION
Cobb, M. “An Amazing 10 Years: The Discovery of Egg and Sperm in the 17th Century.” Reproduction in Domestic Animals Vol. 47, No. 4 (July 25, 2012): 2-6. (Available online)
Dias, Elizabeth. “When does life begin?” The New York Times. December 31, 2022. (Available online)
Martin, Emily. “The Egg and the Sperm: How Science Has Constructed a Romance Based on Stereotypical MaleFemale Roles.” Signs, Vol. 16, No. 3 (Spring, 1991): 485-501. (Available online)
Deutscher, Penelope. “Judith Butler, Precarious Life, and Reproduction: From Social Ontology to Ontological Tact.” Foucault’s Futures: A Critique of Reproductive Reason. New York: Columbia University Press, 2017. (Available with institutional access)
THE EGG CELL MARKET
Almeling, Rene. Sex Cells: The Medical Market for Eggs and Sperm. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2011. (Available with institutional access)
Gruen, Lori. “Oocytes for Sale?” Metaphilosophy Vol. 38, No. 2-3 (April 2007).
Gruen, Lori. “Eggs on the Market.” Ethics in Biology, Engineering and Medicine: An International Journal Vol. 3, No. 4 (2012): 227-236. (Available with institutional access)
Klitzman, Robert. “Buying and selling human eggs: infertility providers’ ethical and other concerns regarding egg donor agencies.” BMC Med Ethics 17, 71 (2016). (Available online)
MAKING HUMAN EGGS
Hamzelou, Jessica. “Inside the race to make human sex cells in the lab.” MIT Technology Review. August 23, 2022. (Available online)
Marcus, Amy Dockser. “What If Men Could Make Their Own Egg Cells?” The Wall Street Journal. October 27, 2023. (Available online)
Stein, Rob. “Startup aims to make lab-grown human eggs, transforming options for creating families.” NPR. July 15, 2023. (Available online)
Surani, Azim. “Egg Cetera #1: The immortal egg.” University of Cambridge. April 7, 2012. (Available online)
VEGANISM
Adams, Carol J. The Sexual Politics of Meat: A Feminist-Vegetarian Critical Theory. London: Bloomsbury Press, 1990. (First chapter available online)
Adams, Carol J. “Why feminist-vegan now?” Feminism & Psychology Vol. 20, No. 3 (August 3, 2010). (Available with institutional access)
Hasan, Zoya and Arturo Elizondo. “Arturo Elizondo On His Biotech Company’s New ‘Liquid Gold’ Egg-Protein Product.” Forbes. October 19, 2023. (Watch online)
Ireland, Corydon. “More than just meat.” The Harvard Gazette. April 30, 2010. (Available online)
Wright, Laura. The Vegan Studies Project: Food, Animals, and Gender in the Age of Terror. Athens: University of Georgia Press, 2015. (Available online)
THE EGG IN ART
Bucklow, Spike. “Egg Cetera #4: Mayonnaise and the making of masterpieces.” University of Cambridge. April 8, 2012. (Available Online)
Lameignère, Erwann. “Camille Henrot ‘Grosse Fatigue.’” Collectif Combo. Video, 7 min, 28 seconds. (Watch here)
Chayka, Kyle. “‘Grosse Fatigue’ Tells the Story of Life on Earth.” The New Yorker. July 10, 2020. (Available online)
Hall, Stephanie. “The Ancient Art of Decorating Eggs.” Library of Congress Blogs. April 6, 2017. (Available online)
Kellogg, Rhoda. Analyzing Children’s Art. Palo Alto: National Press Books, 1969. (Available online)
Nowakowski, Teresa. “Why Did Old Masters Use Eggs in Oil Paintings?” Smithsonian Magazine. March 30, 2023. (Available online)
Stewart, Brian. “Egg Cetera #6: Hunting for the world’s oldest decorated eggs.” University of Cambridge. April 10, 2012. (Available online)
Viola, Bill. I Do Not Know What It Is I Am Like. 1986. Video, 89 min. (Watch the egg hatch scene here)
THE EGG IN LITERATURE
Butler, Octavia. Bloodchild and Other Stories. New York: Seven Stories Press, 2005. (Available online)
Cixous, Hélène. “‘The Egg and the Chicken’: Love is not Having.” Reading with Clarice Lispector. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1990. (Available online)
Jackson, Zakiyyah Iman. Becoming Human: Matter and Meaning in an Antiblack World. New York: NYU Press, 2020. (Available online with institutional access)
Kawakami, Mieko. Breasts and Eggs: A Novel. New York: Europa Editions, 2020.
Lispector, Clarice. “The Egg and the Chicken.” The Foreign Legion. Rio de Janeiro: Rocco Attica, 1964. (Available online)
THE EGG IN PHILOSOPHY
Griaule, Marcel and G. Dieterlen. The Pale Fox. Paris: Institut d'ethnologie, 1945. (Available online)
Henrot, Camille. Elephant Child. Los Angeles: Inventory Press, 2015.
Latour, Bruno. “Spheres and networks: Two ways to interpret globalization.” Harvard Design Magazine 30 (2009): 138–144. (Available online)
Nancy, Jean-Luc. The Creation of the World or Globalization. Albany: SUNY Press, 2002.
Powys, John Cowper. In Defence of Sensuality. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd, 1931. (Available online)
Sloterdijk, Peter. Bubbles: Spheres Volume I: Microspherology; Globes: Spheres Volume II: Microspherology; Foams: Spheres Volume III: Microspherology. The Spheres Trilogy. Frankfurt and Berlin: Suhrkamp Verlag, 1998-2004.
Žižek, Slavoj, “Human Rights in a Chocolate Egg: Welcome to the dessert of the real.” Cabinet Magazine. Summer, 2003. (Available online)